After making my cravat for my Hijikata cosplay, I started on my jacket and waistcoat.
I used black minimat and polyester lining. I lucked out with the bias binding and zip being exactly the same colour.
I didn’t have a jacket pattern that I could use for the Shinsengumi uniform so I decided to modify a shirt pattern from Burda 7/99. This was not a great idea as the jacket was rather tight with the shirt and waistcoat.
The things I added for the cosplay were fake epaulets with buttons, cuffs with bias detail and buttons, rigid collar and bias binding detail. I added pockets to carry my phone but also to have somewhere to put my hands. I decided to line the jacket as it’s easier to put on and take off a lined jacket. I also wanted a breast pocket so I could kept my fake cigarette close at hand – Hijikata is a heavy smoker.
The original shirt was a little short for my purposes so I added 10cm to the bottom of the pattern pieces. I used the cut fabric pieces as a pattern for the lining.
I drew a basic pocket shape onto my material and cut out four pieces.
I put the pockets in the side seams. They turned out okay for carry small things but they didn’t work so well for hands.
I put the material and lining pieces together following the shirt pattern. On the lining I added the breast pocket.
The fake cigarette ended up getting stuck in the pocket so I couldn’t haul it out smoothly for the cosplay. I stitched a part of the breast pocket into a special pocket for it.
I cut two rectangles for the fake epaulets.
Fake epaulets stitched in place. You can see stay stitching around the neckline. A button was added to the epaulet once the collar and sleeve were in place.
I used the original collar as the base for the rigid collar and added the top bit which got folded over.
I stiffened the entire collar with a medium weight stiffener and the bottom half of the collar with a heavy weight stiffener.
Collar attached to lined jacket.
I cut two rectangles for the cuffs and edged them with bias binding. I stitched a fake overlap to create the required look.
The buttons are wooden and painted to match the bias binding.
Cuffs added to the sleeves – cuff right side to sleeve wrong side and then turned to right way round.
I did some spot stitches to keep the cuffs in place.
I put off doing the front for ages – it became a last minute con’s this weekend thing.
With lots of measuring and chalk lines, I positioned the bias for the little rectangles. Once they were done, I biased the entire edge of the jacket – front, hem and collar.
Unfortunately, I have no pictures of the construction of the waistcoat. It was between taking progress picture or getting it done. I used the the same pattern pieces as the jacket (front and back). It’s not lined, and the zip in front acts as both fastener and bias binding as it’s the same colour as the bias binding that’s around the armholes and bottom of the waistcoat. Another sad note was that the wig order didn’t arrive on time so it was regular Hijikata with my natural hair instead of gender bent Hijikata with pigtail braids.
Vice-commander Hijikata Toushirou